Pavers vs. stamped concrete for a patio

Size it from the furniture

Patios get priced by the square foot, but they get used like rooms. Start with what you'll put on it and work backwards. You'll end up with a better patio than if you pick a size that sounds generous.

Then decide what's permanent. A fire feature, an outdoor kitchen, lighting, pergola footings or a hot tub all need something under the surface: gas, wiring, drainage, or a thicker base to carry the weight. All of it is easy before the surface goes down and disruptive afterwards.

Plan for shade early too. A south- or west-facing patio with no shade doesn't get much use in midsummer, and adding a pergola later means cutting footings into a finished surface. If you might want shade, set the footings while the base is open.

Comparing the three surfaces

Stamped concrete is one solid slab, textured before it hardens. You get a continuous look that pavers can't match, but it acts like a slab. It will crack, and control joints only decide where. The colour is on the surface, so wear and sun change it over time, and you'll need to reseal it every few years. Well-placed control joints steer the cracks into lines that look like part of the pattern, but don't count on a big slab staying uncracked forever where the ground freezes.

Pavers are individual blocks on a compacted base, with sand in the joints. When the ground moves, the pavers shift a little instead of cracking, and any section can be lifted and reset. The downside is the joints. They need re-sanding every few years, and that's where weeds come up if the sand breaks down. You can sometimes lay pavers over an old concrete patio, if the slab is solid, drains properly and the extra height works at the doors and steps. If the slab cracked because the ground moved, that movement will carry on under the pavers.

Natural stone is the premium choice, and how it holds up depends on the stone. Dense stone handles freezing and thawing well. Porous stone soaks up water and can flake. Ask about how the stone does in your climate before you choose it on looks alone.

Getting the installation right

Just like a driveway, a patio lasts or fails because of its base. That means digging deep enough, compacting gravel in layers, and deciding where the water goes. Get those right and the patio will still be flat in ten years.

1. 1.

   Dig deep enough

   There has to be room for the base, the bedding layer and the surface. Skimping here doesn't show on day one, but it shows after three winters.

2. 2.

   Compact in layers

   Put the gravel down in shallow layers and compact each one. A single deep layer can't be compacted all the way through and will settle unevenly.

3. 3.

   Set the slope first

   A patio should slope away from the house, about a quarter inch per foot. Perfectly level looks right on paper and leaves puddles after every rain.

4. 4.

   Put edge restraints on pavers

   Without them, the pavers spread out from the edges. It's a must, and it's often the first thing a cheap quote leaves out.

5. 5.

   Cut control joints in concrete properly

   To the right depth and soon enough after the pour. Those cuts decide where the cracks go.

6. 6.

   Run services first

   Lighting, gas for a fire feature, irrigation and drainage are simple before the surface goes on and expensive after.

7. 7.

   Check whether you need a permit

   A patio at ground level usually doesn't need one, but lot coverage and stormwater rules can apply. A raised patio, or one with a structure over it, often does.